Clearly visible from the valley, the Petit and Grand Drus are emblematic summits of the Chamonix valley and Mont-Blanc. The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix has even made it their emblem. After the two peaks were climbed in 1878 (the Grand) and 1879 (the Petit), the traverse of the two peaks was done for the first time in 1903 by three guides from the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. An incredible and dazzling performance at the time. The traverse route goes up the south ridge of the Petit Dru, climbing is athletic with numerous sections between 4+ and 5+. The ascent of the Grand Dru via the Z passage, is full of surprises, including the final pitch, a terrible chimney grade 4, which leaves climbers with unforgettable memories…!
Making contact : A few days before the beginning of the course, the guide will contact you to know more about your level, equipment and talk about the conditions on the mountain.
DAY 1: Rock climbing route – Ex : normal route to the Peigne
Long route with mountain shoes. Review mountaineering basics, rope handling, rappelling.
Night in Chamonix.
DAY 2: Rock climbing altitude route. Ex : Lépiney route at Trident du Tacul.
Technical climb on granite (5-5+).
Night in Chamonix.
DAY 3: Hike to the Charpoua hut via the Montenvers train. Long hike (3hrs) but not technical.
DAY 4: Drus. Complex approach on Charpoua glacier. The climb of Petit Dru is the longest and hardest part of the ascent. Physical and sustained climb in cracks. Many sections between 4+ and 5+.
The ascent of Grand Dru via the Z passage is also technical and physical. Rappelling down Grand Dru is long and demands ease and speed. The return by the Charpoua glacier can be tricky.
Night in Chamonix or at the Charpoua hut.
DAY 5: In case of late return of the traverse, the 5th day of the route will be devoted to return to the valley from the hut. In case of variable weather, the day can also be used as a safety day.
The program presented here above is a guideline for the course. The guide’s experience in the field allows him only to make changes to adapt the course program to mountain and weather conditions, and to participants’ skills and abilities.
Details – Traverse of the Drus:
Long course with rocky approach and complex glacier return. Listed as difficult on 900m of difference in height. of rocky passages between 4 and 5+. Physical and sustained climbing. Long descent rappelling.
PHYSICAL LEVEL :
Person in excellent physical condition.
TECHNICAL LEVEL :
6a in climbing and good shape in order to progress quickly along the course. Good cramponing technique necessary for the approach and the return on the Charpoua glacier.
Experience of a course classified as difficult.
DATES : Mondays between mid-June and mid-August
Don’t hesitate to call us for more information and the advice of a mountain guide.
PRIX 2017 : 2900€ per person
Included in the package:
- Mountain guide service
- Lift access
- Lunch picnics
- Half-board in mountain hut.
Not included :
-Lodging in Chamonix