“No matter how many times one has climbed the Meije peak, first time summiters, local climbers, and frequent visitors altogether, regard it as the most scenic climb in the Oisans massif …Happiness of ”the moment” arises as one reaches the summit of Grand Pic, and marvels at the view of successive rocky arêtes…“
Gaston Rébuffat was a talented mountain guide, an extremely skilled mountaineer who knew the Meije like nobody else. He is the author of two books named “100 great classic climbs“ of the Oisans and the Mont Blanc massifs. From the village of La Grave, one looks at the Meije arêtes with intimidation. The very glaciated North face is very steep. It hides a much more welcoming side… The climb up the Enfetchores leads to a keyhole passage, and to a totally different world, sunny with hardly any glacier. Located at the start of the arête, the Promontoire (“look-out point”) hut offers a magnificent view. As the most southern great peak in the Alps, the summit of the Meije was last to be conquered. After numerous attempts by mountaineers from all nationalities, the successful first ascent was achieved by Pierre Gaspard and his son, guiding Boileau de Castelnau to the summit in 1877, Today’s normal route up the Meije, usually combines the traverse of the arêtes, and follows across to the summit of Doigt de Dieu peak (“Gods finger”, 3973m). Tired and happy, mountaineers enjoy a rest at the 100 year-old Aigle mountain hut (3450m), in a comfortable bed after a rewarding meal. The following day is spent descending back down to the valley and Villars d’Arène.
DAY 1 : Meeting the party and the guide
Review mountaineering basics and rope handling on a local crag.
Later in the afternoon, hike to hut and stay overnight. 2 persons/guide
DAY 2 : Easy adaptation climb
Rock climbing route : application of the mountaineering basics on a high mountain terrain
For example : Arête Midi-Plan 1 person/guide
DAY 3 : Technical adaptation climb
For example :Chapelle de la Glière 1 person/guide
DAY 4 : Drive to La Grave and approach to the hut
Hike and climb to the Promontoire hut (3092m) through les Enfetchores and brèche de la Meije +1100m
DAY 5 :Ascent of the Meije (3983m) and hike back down to the valley +900m -2300m
Meije ascent is unbelievably diversify through different technical passages like le Pas du Crapaud, Cheval rouge, Doigt de Dieu…
DAY 6 (optionnal day) : – Drive back to Chamonix if late return on Day 5 + 500m 1280m
The program presented here above is a guideline for the course. The guide’s experience in the field allows him only to make changes to adapt the course program to mountain and weather conditions, and to participants’ skills and abilities.
Starting Point : Vallons de la Meije Gondola in the village of La Grave.This long sustained and mainly rocky climb includes many grade 4 rock climbing sections.
It is one of the most aesthetic lines in the Alps.
Technical difficulty: requires to be in good physical shape and a solid mountaineering experience is necessary. Experience in AD+ climbing difficulty. The use of crampons is advised.
Level required : Experience in AD+ climbing difficulty.
DATES : On Mondays, from late June to early September
Please feel free to contact us anytime to check the conditions.
PRICE 2017: 2900 € per person
- Organisation and supervision by a State qualified high mountain guide
- Midday picnics
- Half board accommodation in mountain huts.
Not included :
-Accommodation in Chamonix.
For any further information, feel free to contact Flore: +33 4 50 53 00 88 or by email