During the middle of the 1930’s, stories and dramas on the Eiger mountain made front page on many news papers in the world. In spite of its rather morbid reputation, its North face attracted dozens of mountaineers. At the time, mountaineering represented a great opportunity to establish nationalism and personal ambitions. Only in 1938, German and Austrian climbers joined to conquer the North face to the summit. ( interesting to know that they accidentally met during the climb!).
This incredibly difficult ascent had previously claimed the lives of over 50 mountaineers during numerous attempts to climb the North face. The Nazis used its conquest as an image for its propaganda, setting forth the values of the social democratic party (courage, commitment, willpower etc.), qualities so well illustrated during the first ascent of the Eiger North face.
Today’s alpine mentality is quite different, and propaganda days have long desapeared. However, the mysterious 1800 meter limestone face crops up high above alpine meadows, and keeps inspiring gloomy thoughts to European wanderers.
Yet, a much easier route leads to the summit of the Eiger North face: the Mittellegi ridge.
It faces west, and presents mainly rock climbing difficulty, evenly spread along the ridge, with a half way point at the summit… The descent via Monchjochhütte and down the Jungfrau train is still very long.
Day1: Meet your guide and other climbers at the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix in the morning. Reviewing rope handling basics on a local climbing crag, followed by a hike to the hut in the afternoon. Night at the hut. 2 clients/guide.
Day2: Preparation and acclimatization climb in the high alpine.
Ex: South arête at the Moine. 1 client /guide
Day3: Preparation and acclimatization climb. 1 client /guide
Ex: the Papillion arête at the Peigne.
Day4: Van ride to Grindelwald – climb to Mitellegihütte. Night at the hut 1 client /guide
Day5: reach the summit of the Eiger – Descent down to the valley – ride back to Chamonix
Climb presentation - Mittellegi ridge
Starting point: Grindelwald – Jungfrau cogtrain – Mittellegihütte (the hut sits on the arête, with both sides of the building hanging over the edge…).It is a 3-hour climb from Eissmer station. Rock climbing difficulty: III.
Route description:with its 2km long ridge, it is one of the most beautiful rocky arête in the Alps. It includes some IV rock climbing sections. The most technical sections are equipped with fixed ropes. By its technical aspect, the descent is considered an alpine route of its own.
Mittellegi Ridge – D- 880m vertical gain and 740 m vertical drop.
Technical difficulty: a very good level of fitness combined with mountaineering experience are required. Experience climbing PD/AD routes, and good skills using crampons. Rock climbing level required: 4+/5
DATES : On Mondays, from mid July to end of August / early September
Please feel free to contact us to check the conditions !
PRICE 2017: 3000 € per person
- Organization and supervision by a State qualified high mountain guide
- Midday picnics
- Half board accommodation in mountain huts.
Not included :
-Accommodation in Chamonix.
For any further information, feel free to contact Flore: +33 4 50 53 00 88 or by email