Guides de Chamonix

Mont Blanc Ski et Guide Compagnie
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Our Company’s legacy

The” Companie des guides” original statutes were established on the 24th of July, 1821, listing two  fundamental directives : a work distribution-system for the guides  and the creation of an emergency  fund to support victims of work accidents. 200 years later, our company still adheres to the same keystone guidelines.  
The statutes brought forth a desire to create an identifying emblem. The first  Compagnie des guides membership medal  was  awarded to 34 guides . A list was written, starting with the name of Jacques Balmat, who was first to reach the summit of Mont-Blanc.

Exploring the MontBlanc massif

During the 19th century, travelers rode mules to Montenvers and walked across Mer de Glace thanks to the help and service of a guide. Alpine mountaineering routes were hardly ever climbed. Mont Blanc , Aiguille du Midi  up the  Vallée Blanche ,and Mount Buet were among the most popular summit at the time. From the late 1900’s until  the turn of the 20th century, the appeal for adventure  became more vibrant. Hazardous and dangerous climbs were more frequent. Some of the new routes then became today’s classic climbs.

Great achievements…

 During the early days of mountaineering, many serious routes and great peaks were attempted and conquered by the members of the Chamonix Guides’ company  : these great achievements include the first ascent to the summit of  the Grandes Jorasses and the Matterhorn by Michel Croz (1865); The Drus by Jean Charlet-Straton (1879); Annapurna , the first 8000m peak, by Louis Lachenal  (1950), Makalu 8463m the fifth highest peak on the globe, by Lionel Terray (1955),  Mount Jannu  ( 7710m) by René Desmaison (1962), Mount Everest first successful French expedition lead  by Jean Affanasief  (1978), summer and winter mountaineering  trilogies on the North face of the Grandes Jorasses, Eiger and Matterhorn by Christophe Profit (1985 and 1987). Even today, the new generation can claim many successful climbs all over the world.

Au Jannu
Au JannuAu Jannu
Croz
CrozCroz

Christophe Profit
Christophe ProfitChristophe Profit


 

Following our elders’ path

Photo de Rébuffat
Photo de RébuffatPhoto de Rébuffat

 Through time, famous guides such as Roger Frison-Roche, Gaston Rébuffat, Lionel Terray, Louis Lachenal, or Armand Charlet  have been ardently honored by mountain communities. Very famous and less prominent guides contributed to making what the “Compagnie des guides” is today,  thanks to their courage, sense of leadership and wisdom. These forerunners in the field of mountain guiding prepared the ground in a fundamental way. Today, guiding as such is more diverse. When great decisions  must be made , achievements of elders are an immense source of inspiration. Opening the way was their ambition; it shall be ours today.

Lachenal
LachenalLachenal

Rébuffat Terray
Rébuffat TerrayRébuffat Terray

Armand Charlet
Armand CharletArmand Charlet

Roger frison Roche
Roger frison RocheRoger frison Roche

 

Today’s guiding energies

 Today, there are new ways to approach the alpine. Our guides have adapted to changing trends and  public’s expectations. Ice-climbing, winter mountaineering, extreme skiing, via ferratas, remote  expeditions, trekking, rock climbing, crags and big walls just to mention a few of their favorite activities. They are also specialized in exposed civil engineering tasks, big wall safety, canyoning, paragliding off summits.  They can design and manage corporate events and theme holidays, thus adapting to modern-day business practices and personal needs. Their professional occupation also include technical advising for mountain sportswear, and teaching at the national school for  guiding and skiing certification (ENSA). Yet, we are strongly driven by traditional mountaineering in what we do.

    

Mountain huts and training courses

Mountain huts have always been a crucial part of a guide’s life. As a result, mountain guides are naturally involved in building, maintaining or working in huts. Actually, the Guides’ Company and the Mountain Sports Promoting Organization (ADSM) manage three huts together: the Cosmiques, the Requin ( with the contribution of the French Alpine Club), and the Charpoua huts. Our main objective is to improve comfort, renovate and upgrade building and hut facilities, always focusing on traditional  mountain hut hospitality.  The ADSM is a certified training institution, and thus contributes to instructing local mountaineers for their guiding exam. It also provides out company members other types of training, such as languags courses.

MAISON DE LA MONTAGNE

190 place de l'Eglise
F 74400 CHAMONIX

+33 (0)4 50 53 00 88
info@chamonix-guides.com